Composition

The origin of the word ‘composition’ is from late middle English – via Latin – derived from ‘componere’ meaning to ‘put together’.

composition |ˌkämpəˈzi sh ən|

noun

1 the nature of something’s ingredients or constituents; the way in which a whole or mixture is made up

A long time ago artists who were viewed by the public as having an innate sense of design, who created works that were viewed as masterpieces and as having good composition were studied.  Some interesting findings came out of the analysis of such art work.  It showed patterns and trends in the organization and inter-relationships of lines, shapes, forms and colours. When the same techniques were then used by others it was found that they drastically improved their work.  When these patterns were defined they became known as the ‘rules of composition’.

Rule of Thirds

By far the best known composition rule. This is where the frame is divided into thirds, and the focus of the image is placed where one of the lines cross. The rule of thirds can apply to any type of image from portraiture to landscape. In fact in landscape photography, depending on where the focus is intended, the horizon should fall on either the top third ‘line’ (when the land is the main focus) or the bottom third ‘line’ (when the sky is the main focus)

Monotonous Repetition. 

This is where the frame is filled with the same object over and over again. This is a very effective form of composition. It can be used in conjunction with depth of field (see example) or just using any object straight on – why not try it with a whole lot of coloured pencils? or balls? bricks, stone work, grasses, flowers, clouds, shells, sand … anything can work. 

Direction of Movement. 

When placing a moving object in your frame, make sure the object has ‘room’ to move across the frame. Also with lines of sight … if your subject is looking to either the left or the right (rather than straight at the camera) ensure that the line of sight runs across the frame, rather than straight off to one side. 

Negative Space. 

The use of negative space can be a very powerful tool, and even more so when the negative space is all one colour or texture. Use it to weight out the image and add interest to the composition. In the example we used solid negative space to highlight the connection between father and baby, and to emphasize the fragility and tenderness of a newborn. 

Using Diagonals. 

You can use diagonals either by placing yourself so that solid lines create a diagonal across the frame (see example) or by tilting your frame to manufacture the diagonal. This can often create interesting portraiture, and is used often in landscape photography. 

The human eye tends to prefer ‘S’ shapes to create a more peaceful scene, so a ‘S’ shaped path, road or stream, composed to create a diagonal across the frame would be a powerful composition. 

Depth of Field to lead the eye. 

Our example is a contemporary take on the traditional family portrait. Using depth of field to lead the eye through the image, while maintaining the focus on the subjects in the foreground. The example image also uses the rule of thirds. 

top tip – slow down, take your time to think about the photo before you take it, consider where each element is placed in the viewfinder, consider what it is you want to create. You will find that the number of ‘throw away’ shots on your camera reduces by just taking a little extra time.

Generally if the composition feels ‘comfortable’, if it makes you feel the way you wanted it to make you feel, encapsulates its message and expresses it clearly – that is a photo with effective composition.

Kate & Merryn

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“Good composition is like a suspension bridge; each line adds strength and takes none away… Making lines run into each other is not composition. There must be motive for the connection. Get the art of controlling the observer – that is composition.” 

— Robert Henri

This guide is designed as a simple overview of everything from photographic products and equipment to lighting, exposure and composition of photographs.

As with everything, there are always more than one way to do it, and always more than one opinion. These articles are our opinion only, based on our experience and technical knowledge and are aimed at the beginner.

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What kind of camera do you use? What kind of camera should I buy?

We get asked this question ALL the time. And our answers are generally “what do you want to do with it?”. The answer is usually “take nice photos”.

Well the easiest way to take nice photographs, easily, is to buy a standard point and shoot digital camera and read the instruction manual. They are cameras you can pop in your bag and take to birthday parties, snap a few shots at the Christmas work party, or even take lovely holiday shots. Some of the point and shoot (p/s) cameras on the market are top quality. They are quick, easy, can come with up to about 10 megapixels, are relatively cheap, you don’t need to buy a whole kit of lenses to go with them and you don’t need a truck and an assistant to help you move your equipment.

You would expect to pay as little as $150 to around $600 for a decent little point and shoot camera, the more expensive end usually come with video features.

“But” you say “I don’t like the shutter delay, and I really want a big black heavy thing, because they look so cool” … ok. Well, then we are talking about a Digital SLR (single-lens reflex camera).

There is a HUGE amount of information out there about DSLRs. There are many brands and even more brands of lenses. We don’t know much about the brands outside of Canon and Nikon, but both of us started with cheaper brands, (Fuji and Olympus).

If you are seriously looking at a DSLR, (and quite frankly, your photography will move to a whole new level if you can use a SLR as opposed to a Point ‘n’ Shoot as you have total control over the image you create) you are looking at spending at least $600 on special and probably an old model. This will get you an entry level amateur enthusiast model with all the bells and whistles you need to learn the ‘art’ and become familiar with an SLR. You can usually add on what is called a ‘kit lens’ or two, which might give you a couple of lenses to play with. They are generally fairly poor quality, but perfectly acceptable for entry level.

If you’ve never owned a SLR before, or have never got your SLR out of ‘Auto’, then we suggest starting small. It is much easier getting frustrated with not getting a well exposed, sharp image from a $600 camera than it is getting frustrated with a $2500 (or more!) camera. Both Canon and Nikon make pretty decent models at this lower end of the price bracket.

There will come a time when you either outgrow your entry level, or you have money to burn, and you will want to upgrade. That’s when you start getting into the bigger price brackets, and the cameras come with more buttons.

I, (Kate) shoot Canon, and Merryn shoots Nikon. So we are pretty impartial to the two ‘camps’ that are out there in the photography world. There are definitely some very good brands besides Canon and Nikon, but generally the ‘pros in the know’ stick with either Canon or Nikon, and they are the brands we will be talking about.

Deciding on which brand to go for is a tricky thing. They are both great, GREAT brands. So do your own research and find some independent reviews. Canon and Nikon compete so highly in the market, that there is always someone in the lead for a little while, then the other is in favour. So if you can’t decide, flip a coin!

Having said that though, buying into a brand is an investment. The upside (or the downside depending on what you want out of your camera) is that DSLR’s require different lenses for different purposes. So once you buy into a brand, you need to start collecting lenses. These lenses do not fit other brands. So you could have a 50m prime lens with a Canon mount, that will not fit any other brand of camera. Bear this in mind. Do your research on lenses. Generally though, if you have purchased your camera with a kit lens or a twin lens kit, you will be set for as long as it takes you to work out your fstops from your ISO’s.

There is another catch. Some brands of lens, don’t follow through with compatibility when moving up the ‘chain’ ie: from amateur to enthusiast to pro level cameras. Bear this in mind when purchasing lenses if you have a view to upgrading. Generally speaking though the more expensive the lens, the more likely it is to fit the whole range.

So there. That’s a very basic answer to the “what kind of camera should I buy” question. Canon or Nikon is our answer, when talking DSLR’s.  How much you want to spend is up to you. In both brands you can spend well over $10K on the body alone! … (that’s without any lens to use it with!)

And as far as what cameras we use? Merryn has just welcomed home a new baby, called Nikon D700, replacing her D80. Kate has finally got her little hands on the brand spanking new Canon 5D Mark II, to replace her trusted 30D. (and she just has to have a little brag – this new camera, has 21 mega pixels! She’s very happy, she can now go into Billboard Photography!) (joke!) … 

So, there you go. Be warned though. Once photography gets in the blood stream, remember to cut up the credit card! This is NOT a cheap hobby! ….

Next: Composition. Follow a few simple rules to create stunning photographs. 

Have fun! 

Kate & Merryn 

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” You have one thing in common with all successful people – “24 HOURS A DAY”. It’s how you use them that makes all the difference.”
Author Unknown